Hello! I realize that this blog is long, and reading over it there may be a whole lot of disconnect ( and many spelling errors?). There was so much that happened in the past week and I am just starting to make sense of it all. Either way I hope this gives you a glimpse into what life has looked like over the past few days!

Last Tuesday our crew drove out for the week to the Akrofi-Christaller Institute in Akropong to observe and partake in the Odwira festival. This festival involves numerous events that carry great religious and traditional significance for the people in the Akropong region. This festival is celebrated each year in order that the people may cleanse themselves, the bringing in of the new year and the waking of the ancestors in order that they may be fed. The word Odwira actually means purification/ cleaning in Twi. Everything that happens during the weeklong celebrations is to commemorate the 1826 capture of Odusu (said to be made up of all the heads of the people the Asante conquered- The power of the Asante’s enemies captured in the Odosu) No one has ever seen the Odosu.

Wednesday was the day which was considered the day of mourning. Most people involved were wearing the colours which would be worn to a funeral here; black and red. On this day people plan funerals for anyone who has died in the past. At around 11 a.m. we went to the chiefs palace to watch the preparations conducted before the chief would moved around to ten different houses known as the stool houses to poor libation. Of course here in Ghana, the concept of time is quite different than what we are used to, and a ceremony that was supposed to start at 11 did not start until 2 p.m. Because we had left to get some food we ended up missing the ceremony itself but were still in time to follow the chief to the different homes. This is done in order to show support. The stools carry great significance in this community. The Akan people believe that the stools are powerful and so you must be strong in order to work with them.

Thursday brought in the traditional new year, and on this day the people were going to feed the ancestors. This was the most interesting part of the Odwira festival for me. For most of the afternoon we stood at the side of the road and watched the people parade past on their way to a shrine at the end of the town where the ancestors would be fed. Everything about the parade was interesting and caused me to come up with so many questions. To give you a bit of a picture of what  I was seeing; one woman at a time came down the street dressed in white and with their face and limbs covered in white chalk. They carried on their heads the food for the ancestors which was wrapped in a white material. The women were possessed by spirits and needed to be surrounded by men who made sure that the food would not fall off their heads as this would be very bad.  At certain points the women would have Schnapps poured onto their feet.  While the majority of the carriers were women there were about three boys as well. The streets were loud and packed and I nearly fell into a couple of gutters. Once all the carriers had passed we followed them to the mossoleum (shrine) where they went inside (where we were not allowed) and gave the food to the ancestors. The evening had us to bed very early as their was a 10 p.m curfew imposed for the whole city. 

Guns-People in Akropong are traditionally a warrior community. They are fighters and the guns symbolize their power and manhood. Women are not allowed to own guns but most boys receive a gun to signify their becoming a man. This is frustrating to me. Everywhere during the past week their were security men with large guns that were shot to ward off evil spirits and to keep control. It seemed to me that the men were just power hungry and wanted to tout their control. It was hard for me to see that they were a symbol of the communities past and not a significant part of their present day lifestyle. Still, they made me incredibly nervous and so loud!

On Friday morning we met a family who is in charge of a large tree found in the centre of the town. We followed them in a processional to the tree where a sacrifice would be given to the tree. The ceremony began with the family surrounding the tree and libations performed with the pouring of Schnapps. At this point a female member of the family became possessed and was communicating a message to the other members of the family. Nobody could interpret what she was saying. After she had taken the Schnapps and poured it all around the tree, two men took a goat and slit its throat open in order to pour its blood all around the tree. They dragged the goat around releasing most of the blood from its body. It was incredibly hard for me to watch as it slowly died and was then cut apart  so that what could be salvaged was taken, and so the head could be placed at the base of the tree. ( I was really surprised I did not pass out).

In the afternoon we attended the presidential speech (which the president had someone else give) and the parade of all the chiefs around the town. I really wanted to be excited for this but I was just so exhausted and overwhelmed by everything else that happened during the week. We also could not see very well from our seats. The speech from the president had my attention but was incredibly dishearting. Ultimately it piggy backed off of Obama’s speech in Ghana given this past sumer. It was not so much the message that irritated me, I really like what Obama had to say at the time he was here. The presidential speech for the people though, consisted of Obama said we should do this and Obama said we should do that. There was nothing about the speech that made it for Ghana from Ghana. This is interesting as the message of Obama’s speech in July was for Africans to take control of their own future. Perhaps I overreacted, but I found the speech to be a testimony to how much power and control the United States or the west has over underdeveloped countries.

Saturday morning we left ACI and took the van up to the Cedi bead  where they take glass, recycle it and create these beautiful beads. We were lucky enough to get a tour of the place and I was completely taken with the whole process, the location.. everything! In fact the idea of coming back here for two months to learn the whole process is incredibly tempting. From smashed glass bottles there are several ways in which the beads are created and then painted and everything is done by hand. I have seen these beads all over the markets here, and so I was really happy to see exactly how they are made, and who is benefitting from the work of the company.

After our time here we moved to Kakum Conservation, where I had my first monkey siting! I was excited to find a large number of baboons on our way in to the park- living in their natural habitat and not in confinement! We drove quite a ways until we were completely surrounded by the Shai Hills. Our guide had us stop at the foot of one very large hill which we would climb up. It was so HOT and while I usually enjoy all the hiking, I was not looking forward to this. It ended up being so worth it, as the view from the top was incredible. Once you emerged from a small cave, you came up to a view that was absolutely breathtaking- you could see for miles and miles. I could have sat there forever it was just so peaceful. 

Once we descended the hill we made our way back to Legon. It was an amazing week and one so full of new experiences.

There were so many big and small details that I needed to absorb and question and consider over this past week. I would love to tell you all about it in more detail when I am home. I have plenty of pictures as well!

Sunday evening I went to a play put on by the theatre group on campus. I went with my friends Seguah, Benjamin and Nana Addo. It was a great comedy called “The Inspection.” The setting was a secondary boarding school for boys, and tells a story of one dorm preparing for their weekend inspection. At boarding schools in Ghana, every weekend their is an inspection which looks at the cleanliness of your room and your own personal hygiene. You can lose or gain points. The dorm that has the most points wins the honour. Seguah, Nana Addo and Benjamin all went to boarding school and so could relate very well to the play. It was incredibly funny and a great night out. It was also interesting to experience a theatre performance here. 

Monday meant no class as it was declared a national public holiday, as well as the last day of Ramadan. The holiday was declared in order to commemorate what would have been Nkrumah’s 100th birthday ( The first president of Ghana after gaining independence from the British). Four of us ended up spending the day at the pool. Despite my gracious and liberal sunscreen application..the sun was not kind to me and I now look ridiculous. 

I have realized that I have almost reached the half way point of my trip! I can’t believe time is flying by so fast. I suddenly realized today that I would like it to slow down (a lot!) There are so many things that I want to experience here yet and so I need to start being very pro-active. I am truly falling in love with this place and all of its people.

I woke up to an evangelist in my dorm this morning. ( it was 6:00 a.m.) He wanted to let all of ISH 2 know that what he was doing was not a hindrance, that we needed to hear the word of Jesus etc etc. Then there proceeded to be several slammed doors and a lot of yelling.

I didn't fall back asleep.

love!