Class..

.. began last Monday, and its apparent that I had put it in the back of my mind when preparing for this trip. I hadn’t really been anticipating the long school days, which has been evidenced by the fact that I do not feel ready to get back into “school mode” so soon! Despite my unpreparedness, the classes that I have had thus far have been incredibly interesting! I am taking six classes in total here; West African Literature, Persons and Cultures of Ghana, Politics and Development, Twi, Religion Family Life and Social Practices, and Drumming/Dance. Most of these classes are conducted by faculty at the Institute of African Studies on campus.

I am so excited for my drumming and dance classes in particular. I am anticipating that the dance class will end up being an intensive work out for two hours each week. It’s not easy dancing in this humidity. I don’t believe I ever thought about how much concentration and coordination even the simplest dance moves actually require. As my roommates boyfriend Benjamin was quick to say, “ white women can’t dance, they just jump around.” While I don’t like the generalization, I can’t say I completely disagree with him. The drumming class will most likely be less physically demanding, but demanding nonetheless. It will still require a lot of concentration and constant practice in order to improve. 

We have every Friday off from class, and this past Friday we travelled to the GA district (Greater Accra). We weren’t quite sure we were actually going till the morning of. There are three areas of GA, east, west and south. Apparently there was some controversy over the transportation they rented for last years group to get there, with one division finding the transportation mode completely unsuitable. I guess the same argument was being had this year as well, but we did end up going. I would assume they didn’t improve upon our vehicle, as an old tro-tro came to pick us up. The drive seemed to take FOREVER even though it was only a few moments out of the city. I think the potholes and helter-skelter traffic caused most of our delay.  

In order to enter some areas of a muncipality or district one must first ask the chief for permission. Chieftaincy is still widely practiced over the entirety of Ghana. So we headed to the chiefs location, alongside the mayor of GA east, the director of education and several other dignitaries whose positions I can’t recall. We asked for permission and offered a gift to the chief. The gift was locally made Schnapps. The chief  used the Schnapps to perform libations ( a prayer to god through the ancestors) and then the schnapps was passed around for us to either drink or pour a bit on the ground, so there we all went and began to drink Schnapps, which was 40% proof, at 10 a.m. in the morning.

We spent the day exploring an old Danish planation, Fredericksgave, that was used after the abolition of the slave trade, then drove to a community radio station. This particular radio station is run solely by volunteers, and is radio programming for the local communities. It focuses its efforts on programs concerning health, the environment and gender issues. Community members are welcome to contribute. 

Perhaps its interesting to point out that GA and Grand Rapids are sister cities, so Grand Rapids offers much support to things such as this community radio station. This is also why we spent the day there and will spend several more in the days to come. 

Some of us spent the evening at the Madina market. Here we were looking for fabric to get some clothing made. My roommate was kind enough to find me a seamstress who she made a good deal with for me. I wish I could speak fluently in the native language! We are beginning our Twi classes and so can practice simple greetings, but nothing near being able to communicate in the market or with the seamstress for example. A large number of people in and around Accra can speak English, but I think it is much more appreciated when we attempt to speak with the locals in their native language. 

This Friday was particularly difficult for me because I wanted more than anything to be home for Kalina and Caleb’s wedding. I think I spent most of the day imagining what was going on, and I am confident that it was absolutely wonderful, and everyone looked amazing. I was crying like a baby  in my disappointment for being absent, but more so in my happiness for the occasion. I am so excited for the two of them! So much love to both of you!

Saturday was a free day for us and so we finally got to the beach! I love the ocean, and was completely immersed in salty ocean water as soon as I got there. This was not intentional. Somehow I was the only one standing on the only rock against which the biggest wave crashed and came over me. I was soaked from head to toe and had a mouth full of salt water. I’m sure it was quite entertaining for everyone else to see, but I must say it felt really good, and my dress dried out fairly quickly in the wind. Later in the day we explored Osu, an area in Accra which is targeted more towards tourists. This was not my most favourite place thus far. Many restaurants selling American style food for a fairly expensive price. It does however have some nice bars, and patio’s that play live music on weekends. It’s an excellent place for a weekend evening. 

The rest of the weekend was spent reading and catching up on emails etc. It was nice to have the weekend off, as that won’t happen to often over the next three months..

love.

A really long update

Finally! I have configured wireless on my computer so I am updating this blog. I apologize for its length and some of it may seem like rambling but I have so much to say. I will try to be more frequent in the days to come! Love and miss.

The first several days in Accra were spent becoming acquainted with the university campus, getting registered and interacting with the Calvin group. We moved into our dorm for the semester and I really enjoy the setting. My room is in a hostel which is basically four walls of rooms that overlook a courtyard. I like that when I walk out of my room, I step out to a very tropical garden, and not to a hallway! I am attempting to become comfortable with the lizards or gecko’s that like to inhabit my room, and the bathroom. They really are kind of cute but they can catch you by surprise.  

Here, they call us obruni's, a term for a white person, though its not derogatory. I think I will eventually just get annoyed by it. People are very friendly here, and I am learning that I fit in well. The concept of "doing it later" is big. People always say "we will come next week," or "I'll meet you at such and such a time" (It's African time!) It's teaching me patience already, time is not seen as a commodity. I appreciate that.

On Monday, I had my first experience in a tro-tro. This is the main form of public transportation in Ghana, and I am not sure just how to describe it. Chaotic might be the best word, but also incredibly inexpensive. It costs about 30 pesewes (or 20 cents) to hitch a ride. Not kidding, you get in these rickidy old vans that hold about 20 people and you speed down the highway. The mate and the driver have their heads out the window trying to get more people to come in. Through all the traffic women and girls are carrying baskets on their heads ( I have no idea how they do this apparently they start when they are five) selling things in between cars. People buy fried banana, and coke ( they are obsessed with coca-cola, which is sweeter here than in north america). These women can run through traffic with giant objects on their heads.. and they don't fall off! We spent the afternoon in the Medina market purchasing cell phones and other items we might need at our hostel. 

This past Tuesday we were given a tour of the city of Accra. What an overwhelming experience. I feel that neither pictures nor words can truly capture the experience of being in this city, We first visited the National Museum, which was a great introduction to the several classes I will be taking, and the trips we will go on. Following this tour we walked into central Accra where there are several different markets set up, the Makola market in particular. The downtown area is packed full of people at midday. With tro-tros, taxis, street vendors, pedestrians and stray animals all vying for space on the road.  The downtown area is particularly challenging to maneuver around as there are absolutely no street signs. It is essential to know the location of particular landmarks in order to get to where you need to be. Following lunch we walked to the coast, though I have yet to get to the ocean! This was my favourite part of the day. Along the coast can be found more vendors, but of particular interest to me, were several musicians we found, who happened to be very talented percussionists! We had found several guys who both make an play drums. After hanging out with them for awhile we were offered free lessons anytime, as well as the opportunity to make our own drum. I will be sure to visit this area many times before the end of the semester. Finally we ended up at the cultural centre, which in reality was a building full of many vendors selling many of the same things and promising “very good prices just for you.” Despite the pushiness, and persistence of the vendors, it was interesting to look around at the vast array of materials in all kinds of colours, the unique jewelery, and more acrylic paintings than you could ever imagine.

There are so many things that sparked my interest after spending a day in the city, If you look around the greater region of Accra, you will instantly notice numerous men, women children all selling practically the same thing as the person in the stall next too them. This is the same situation that is found in the streets amidst the traffic as women sell anything from Coke products, to plantain chips, to pens and pencils. I cannot quite comprehend how micro-enterprise can really work here. I can’t believe that the demand for these products meets supply. It seems absurd that anyone can make enough money to sustain a family in these small businesses. I have learned that many of the women who are seen in these positions are one’s who have escaped far worse conditions in the northern part of the country whether it be extreme poverty, an abusive relationship, or traditional practices such as genital mutilation which still occur in this country today. I plan to explore these things further in my stay here!

On Wednesday our group left by bus to the Akrofi-Christaller Institute an hour north of Legon, in the city of Akroprong. We spent 2 full days here. This institute, a seminary, puts most efforts towards researching traditional Ghanaian religious practices as they intersect with Christianity, the religion that  67% of the country now associates itself with. The faculty and staff at the institute were incredibly hospitable, as I have discovered most Ghanaians are. Having had the water run out at our hostel the weekend before, it did not surprise me when I discovered that neither our toilet, or our sink, or our shower worked in our room at the seminary. We resorted to taking what we affectionately call “bucket showers.” This was actually a pleasant way of showering, as the cold water does not seem quite so cold as when it is hitting you directly. Not to mention, using only one bucket of water is all that is really necessary, and reduces water consumption 10 fold! 

Thursday was dedicated to lectures presented by the seminary faculty. The first one discussed relationships between Christians and Muslims in Ghana, the second focused on traditional religions and Christianity. The third lecture discussed Ghanaian customs such as marriage, funerals and rules of etiquette or respect, I learned that the use of the left hand is neither appropriate or a sign of respect. I suppose this turned me off some, as it will be incredibly difficult for me not to point, pass something, or wave with my left hand, the hand I use all the time!

After our lectures we toured Akroprong visiting the chiefs house, a boarding school, and a healing center, which looked more like a giant and vacant church to me. The boarding schools here caught me by surprise, as even though they cost money to attend are still in dire situation with bare and small classrooms housing more than fifty students to one teacher, and buildings which are falling apart with no signs of repair. This day was perhaps the most overwhelming yet on the trip as I soaked up so much information, and began to realize how different my own life looks in North America in opposition to my home here for the next four months. It has given me so much to think about.

  Friday was an exciting day as we drove an hour north of Akroprong to hike to Boti falls. We hadn’t expected this to be an extensive trip, but I still have incredibly sore legs to prove that it was. We spent the first portion of the trip hiking straight up and down a mountainous gorge, It was a beautiful trip, and was so worth it when we reached Umbrella Rock where you could look out and see hills for miles. I wish that the pictures I took could fully capture how beautiful it was, but I am quite certain they don’t do it justice. The return trip was incredibly challenging as most of the time we were headed straight down. Having two small children with us, made the task a bit more difficult but we made it. It baffled me as we returned to see women setting out on the same trip we had just finished wearing heels, skirts and carrying children on their backs! At the end of our trip we discovered the magnificent Boti falls, two waterfalls side by side. This too was a beautiful scene and well worth the hike! 

On Friday night my roommate finally arrived at our room. Her name is Nana Araba Seguah Isiando and like all the other Ghanaians I have met she is so friendly and hospitable.  I am excited to hang out with her and get to know her and her family better. 

Saturday was a completely new adventure for me as I faced all the laundry I needed to get done- by hand. I woke up early, and discovered that Saturday is the typical laundry day around campus. Everyone was out with their buckets washing their clothes. I must say, it turned into quite a social event. I’ve learned that it is a much better idea to do a small amount of laundry every few days, rather than all of it after two weeks! By the time I was done it had taken me close to three hours, and I am not entirely sure my clothes were completely clean in the end! I’ve learned that it is quite important to give your clothes lots of time to dry. With the humidity here it can take more than two days for some items to dry! 

At 11 a.m. we attended a Ghanaian wedding, which was much like weddings back home.  It was quite an affair, and it is interesting to note that anyone can show up to both the ceremony and the reception, no invite needed! Of course we felt quite underdressed as none of us really brought wedding attire with us. Our roommates were quite surprised when we left as we did. My roommate was trying to dress me which wasn’t helping me out much. She wanted my shoes, earrings and necklace to all be the same colour, and I did not. What is fashionable here is quite a bit different than what we are used to at home.

In the evening we attended an international students dinner where we ate amazing food! Typically we have been eating a copious amount of chicken and rice for morning snack, lunch and dinner. They LOVE rice and chicken here. I have begun to try some of the more traditional Ghanaian dishes, and some I am still to nervous to try as we try to make the transition with our diets. My favourite dish thus far is “red red,” a dish of fried plantains and beans with fish cooked in a red oil. It has been challenging to find vegetables or dairy products. You can find these items at grocery store in Accra but they are very expensive!

Yesterday was spent relaxing by a pool at a hotel down the road from the university. It was a great way to spend the last day before classes start granted we only spend about half of the semester sitting in a classroom. 

I’ve only been here twelve days but it feels like so much longer! I am quickly falling in love with the country and can't wait for what's in store next!

Friends!

It's hard to believe, but I leave for Ghana in just two short days. I'll try to update here whenever possible, to let you in on a little of what I am doing, where I am going, and what I am all seeing.

much love.